Sunday, September 13, 2009

Chopper Spirit

2009 European Championship - Freestyle

Builder - Chopper Spirit
Owner - Chopper Spirit
Location - Cascais
Country - Portugal
Bike Name - Open Mind
Bike Year / Model - 2008
Engine Make / Size - RevTech 110"
Transmission Type - Baker RSD / Evil Engineering
Frame Make / Type - Chopper Spirit
Front End - Paughco / +16" spinger
Rake - 56ยบ
Swingarm - Rigid

Wheels - Front - Paughco 21/2.15
Wheels - Rear - RST 10.0/18
Tires - Front - Avom 90/21
Tires - Rear - Avom 300/35 R18
Brakes - Front- none
Brakes - Rear - Kustom Tech
Painter - Iron Will
http://www.chopperspirit.pt/

want to know more about chopper spirit click the link above,,wah customised chopper nowadays became more creative..haha today there is no tank,maybe tomorrow no handle..hehe..who knows??heheh

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Friday, September 4, 2009

Batman: The Dark Knight Motorcycle Gear for the Everyman


Love Batman? I mean, REALLY love batman? Love Batman enough that you dress up like him even when it’s not Halloween?

Hey, me too! Now you can look like Batman even while riding your motorcycle and be fully protected from the elements (and maybe falls).

It was going to happen sooner or later. With Batman’s latest movie, The Dark Knight, featuring Batman on his Bat-cycle (or “Batpod”), you knew there had to be some motorcycle-batman crossover paraphernalia. Actually I’m quite shocked this wasn’t out sooner.

Universal Designs are making officially licensed Batman: The Dark Knight motorcycle jackets, pants, gloves and boots that replicate what Bruce Wayne wore while chasing down that pesky Joker. And it looks to be the real deal, with removable CE approved armor in the jacket and pants so it’s not just some fancy costume!

There’s no indication of price or when these products will actually come out. hahaha

Check out the rest of the post for features and a pic of the whole outfit. I’m not sure about those wrist-blade thingys. Seems like they would poke an eye out!

Batman: The Dark Knight Motorcycle Gear Features:

- Strong Cordura Mesh Base with Heavy-duty 4 way stretch Spandex inserts.
- Removable CE Approved Body Armor in both Jacket and Pants
- Highly detailed, removable lightweight interior lining.
- Form Molded Leather and Kevlar Armor Sectons.
- Made from Quality Tanned Cow Hides


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Emergency Braking

I was asked recently by a friend who just purchased his first bike what is the most important safety tip you can give me? I thought for a second and answered, learning how to use your brakes. He looked at me as if I were kidding him. "What's to it", he said, "ya just stomp and squeeze just like in your car".

That's the problem I said. Too many riders believe that, and coincidently, bikers crash way to often. You've all heard the story about the guy who had to "lay er down" because somebody pulled out in front of him. What that actually means, is he panicked, locked the rear tire and the bike slid on the ground and stopped when it hit the vehicle or just before it hit the vehicle. In either case, the rider crashed in an attempt to avoid a crash. Ninety percent of the time, if the rider had braked properly in that situation, he would never have struck the vehicle.

So, the question is, how do I minimize my chances of crashing into something? The answer is simple. Practice emergency, maximum braking. But, first there's a couple of things you need to know. Number 1: The front brake is 70% of your braking force. Due to that fact, you must put more pressure on the front brake than the rear brake. If you happen to lock the front tire, you must release it immediately then reapply it. Squeeze the front brake, don't grab it. If you lock the rear tire, don't release it. If you do, there's a good chance you will high side. With a motorcycle, you can still steer when the rear tire is locked and sliding. You must also remember that the motorcycle must be straight up when performing maximum braking. This is not to say that you can't brake with the bike leaned over in a turn, you can lightly brake with both brakes in that situation, but maximum braking must be done with the bike straight up.

The point is, you must learn to modulate your brakes to keep from locking them and the only way to do that is to practice. Keep repeating to yourself, front brake, front brake. That will assist you in putting more pressure on the front brake than the rear brake.

You should practice maximum braking from whatever speed you normally ride. I guarantee your bike will react differently when braking hard at 80mph than at 30mph. If you practice, then in an emergency situation, you will revert to your training, rather than dumb luck. The only other alternative is to buy a bike with anti-lock brakes, just remember, even with anti-lock brakes, the bike still has to be straight up to perform maximum braking.

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No helmet,no safety at all....

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Drinking and Riding

While statistics often don't tell the whole story, when used properly, statistics can give a very clear explanation of events.

Here's a scary statistic for you. More than 47% of motorcycle fatalities involve a rider under the influence of alcohol. In this day and age, it's hard to believe anyone could be stupid enough to get on a motorcycle after drinking a few beers, but the reality is, it happens everyday. While its bad enough to get behind the wheel of a car under the influence, getting on a motorcycle under the influence is sheer stupidity. Let's face it, riding a motorcycle involves a great deal more coordination and skill than driving a car. On a bike you have to balance, steer, counter steer, clutch, shift and use 2 separate brakes. The first thing alcohol does to you is affect your motor skills, in other words, your coordination. That's why field sobriety tests examine and test your ability to do two or more things at once.

I've heard people say many times, "I just had a couple of beers, I'm fine." The fact is, depending on your weight and how much food you have in your system, even 1 beer can have an effect on you. Alcohol is a sneaky drug. You may feel fine, be able to walk straight and not slur your words, yet, if you had to make a quick evasive maneuver on your bike such as a simple brake then swerve, you'd be in trouble with a capital T.

Remember, alcohol affects your ability to do more than one thing at a time and even a simple brake and swerve requires you to perform several tasks. First, you'll have to decide which to do first, brake or swerve. Once that decision is made you'll have to push on one of the bars to make the bike swerve. Will you remember which one you'll have to push on in a panic situation with a couple of beers in your system? Then, you may have to brake and even one beer can slow your reflexes. Now with your reflexes slowed, will you be able to brake in time? Will you remember to put more force on your front brake than the rear? Will you be able to keep that rear brake from locking? Most riders have a problem with the rear brake dead sober. Oh, and don't forget, you have to pull in the clutch and down shift as well during the brake and swerve.

The fact is, in an emergency brake and swerve maneuver, the average rider will be lucky not to crash. The even slightly impaired rider, the one who "just had a couple of beers" has NO chance. Think about it. Is it worth taking that chance?

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A Purchasing Guide for Leather Motorcycle Apparel

Since the dawn of the age of motorcycling, it was apparent that something was needed to protect the exposed human body from the elements. The natural solution was leather. The leather motorcycle jacket, a style made popular by such movie icons as James Dean and “the Fonz”, not only serves as a fashion statement, but is an essential piece of equipment to any serious biker for keeping warm, dry, and in one piece. A good “riding grade” leather jacket combined with motorcycle chaps or leather pants, will act as a second skin between you and the road, and can quite literally “save your hide”. With all this in mind, let’s explore the things to consider when purchasing motorcycle leathers.

The most common material for motorcycle leather is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. Buffalo hide, another high quality leather, is made not from the U.S. buffalo, but the water buffalo most commonly found in India and Pakistan. Many leather products come from this part of the world, and the Pakistanis are world renown for their expertise in the manufacturing of leather garments. Whichever type of hide you choose, you must understand the tanning process, and how it adds or detracts from the quality of the leather.

Leather was of course once the skin of an animal, and therefore must go through a tanning process to strengthen it, and to keep it from decomposing. Tanning makes the skin stable and rot proof without sacrificing its structure and strength. The tanning process involves several stages, including the removal of the hair and the outer layer of skin, as well as the fatty part of the flesh. The hide is then stabilized by one of several methods using animal oils, alum, chrome salts or vegetable tanning. How it is actually finished determines the quality, or riding grade, for our purposes.

Types of Leather

To fully understand the types of leather available, one must first know the term “grain”. The grain is simply the epidermis, or outer layer of the animal’s skin. While imperfections such as cuts, scars, and scratches will exist, the grain in its natural state has the best fiber strength, and therefore the best durability. The grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort to the wearer.

Finished Split Leather
The middle or lower section of a hide that has been split into two or more thicknesses. A polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic grain leather. Finished splits should only be used in low stress applications because they basically have no grain. If the polymer coating is left out it is often used to make suede. Not considered to be riding grade, but can look good nevertheless.

Top Grain Leather
Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is not the same quality as full grain or naked leather, but thicknesses of 1.2-3mm make this type of leather a very strong and durable riding grade material.

Full-Grain and Naked Leather
Full-Grain leather is made from the finest hides, and has not been sanded to remove imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. In the case of Naked Leather, where nothing other than the dye is added; this very soft leather requires no breaking in period. Hides are typically 2mm thick, and must be hand picked for uniformity. The natural full-grain naked leather will wear better than other leather, and will actually improve over the years. This type of leather is the ultimate riding grade; the most sought after, and consequently, the most expensive.

Now that we know what type of leather we want, we must understand the fact that leather is hot, and understand the options that we have for the climate we live in. For winter biking, a jacket with side laces and a belt will allow you to adjust the jacket to fit snugly against the upper body. Of course, being able to fully zip up only adds to your protection from the wind. You can also wear a leather vest underneath your motorcycle jacket for extra warmth. For hot summer days, a leather jacket with air vents allows the air to circulate underneath the jacket and around your body. For an all year round jacket, consider one with a zip or snap out insulated lining.

Leather is not meant to get wet, as that tends to deplete the natural oils, and it is advisable to wear a rain suit over your leathers in inclement weather. However if they do get wet, allow them to dry naturally away from extreme heat. If the leather seems to be losing its luster, it can be oiled to improve its appearance. This supplements the natural oils in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather with mink oil or other commercially available products will keep your leathers supple and improve their lifespan dramatically.

Now that you have found the perfect biker jacket, take care of it, and it will reward you with years of wear. The typical lifetime of a heavy textile jacket will be from 3 to 6 years at the most. A well maintained top quality leather motorcycle jacket will easily give you 10 years and more of riding pleasure!

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